Thursday, April 28, 2011

Bound by Beauty ... Or Bound for Calamity

We left Pittsburgh for Ashland, Oregon, late in the morning; our only possessions were those that could win a spot in the Roof Bag or on Ali’s Cobalt’s backseat.  With no room to recline, a crate of fruit for Ali, and Jared Diamond’s The Third Chimpanzee for me, we began our three thousand-some mile move across the country.

Along the way, I wanted to see America like I hadn’t seen it before, discover what binds it and what separates it. 

Driving through the Midwest, I noticed that rear window decals were seemingly a must-have among truck and SUV owners.  This could lead one to believe that America’s natural beauty is cherished by truck and SUV owners; sadly, it’s not the case.  The purpose of these decals is to make vehicles seem more natural, less destructive, and as if they’re just another part of God’s green earth; it’s an underhanded tactic used by the automotive industry to blur the line that separates their products from Nature.  As an experiment, make a list of cars as fast as you can: how many are given Native American names? How many are named after animals?  Such deception can only be rivaled by cigarette ads that use athletic, well-aged models to sell a product that is known to reduce one’s athleticism and cause premature aging.  The absurdity of these decals can only be rivaled by one drawing one’s curtains so as to block-out the setting sun, thereby reducing the glare on one’s computer monitor, the desktop background of which is, not surprisingly, a setting sun. 

Intermittently, groups of motorcyclists would come between us and the decaled trucks and SUVs.  They were as common as Perkin’s and McDonald’s placards were on highway information signs.  The motorcyclists’ sense of fashion jumped from leather chaps to fresh-pressed jeans, from ponytails and skull-caps to sun-burnt balding heads that seemed to lose more hair with each passing mile.  Many wore helmets, but they too varied from robotic-looking modular helmets to 1960s-era half helmets.  They were bound by motorcycles, but what else, I wondered.  After studying the motorcyclists for two states, I concluded that not much else brought them together, that they too, despite my initial thought that they took to the open road to marvel at the vast expanses of the countryside, were blind to the rolling hills in the distance. 

I slowly began to realize that, despite my wishful thinking, most of America was probably bound by concrete, cars, “reality” TV, restaurant chains, and large corporations, not Nature.  Each motel Ali and I stayed at supported this, offering variations of free cable TV and discounted meals at T.G.I.Friday’s. 

Notwithstanding our current immersion in the human-made world, I’m confident we could rediscover Nature’s beauty (though it may take a major, sustained power outage to reset our mammalian disposition). 

This is not to say that technology is pure evil — it’s not, at all; it’s very human, in fact.  But it should not be our common denominator, Nature should.  And the further we isolate ourselves from Nature, the more likely is our demise, for as much as we “depend” on technology, that technology, as well as human ingenuity, is dependent on Nature.     

Ali and I no longer live in the Northeast; we live in the Northwest.  Our new apartment is a beautiful day’s drive from Seattle, a city originally occupied by the Duwamish tribe.  The Duwamish were (and still are) very grateful for their land and wildlife; their reverence is unmistakably and elegantly documented in a letter written by prominent Duwamish tribesman Chief Seattle to U.S. president Franklin Pierce in 1855: “Every part of the earth is sacred to my people.  Every shining pine needle, every sandy shore, every mist in the dark woods, every clearing and humming insect is holy in the memory and experience of my people.”  Admittedly, Chief Seattle lived in an entirely different world from ours.  Today, we couldn’t possibly treat every pine needle as if it were sacred (except at Christmastime, of course).  But we must admit that we live on the opposite extreme: where the Duwamish have love and respect for the earth we have contempt. 

Chief Seattle’s letter went on to say that “[t]he earth is not the [white man’s] brother but his enemy….  Continue to contaminate your bed, and you will one night suffocate in your own waste.”  Though Chief Seattle’s generalization is counterproductive and racist (and understandable, given the circumstances), his message has become increasingly relevant since it was issued over a century and a half ago — and now applies (as it arguably did then) to every culture across the globe. 

If we do not, as a species, become bound by our mutual love and respect for the natural world, then we are, as a species, bound for a succession of calamities from which we cannot recover.  

I knew this before my and Ali’s move began; it’s not a recent revelation for me.  But the caveat became all the more real to me after I saw what we stood to lose: a planet so beautiful that one can travel 3,000 miles and not once see its beauty falter.  When I realized that this beauty tragically goes unnoticed by most people, I came to understand that my unborn grandchildren would not see this planet if it isn't first seen by those driving on it.  

Monday, April 4, 2011

Asante Sana, Tanzania

Last spring I went to Tanzania to visit a friend stationed there with the Peace Corps.   

The flight was rougher than I expected; it replaced my excitement with torment and, instead of worrying I’d be swimming in the Atlantic, I was worried my head would explode on the seemingly never-ending flight.  (So I don’t sound completely ridiculous, let me explain: my seat’s reading light didn’t work, nor did the TV; I had the window seat and am the type to sit miserably for hours lest I annoy the person next to me.)

Soon after arriving in Tanzania I came to know that which I had confidently, but really only partially, known heretofore: that people are generally the same everywhere on Earth; that the differences that separate cultures are not as strong as the similarities that bond individuals.  This knowledge, I think, is so basic yet so profound that it must be obtained through life experiences, gathered by the senses, to be known completely. 

I realized this early through the conversations I had with Tanzanians, and it was affirmed by the many subsequent conversations I had had.  Tanzanians were more than happy to talk with me, not that I thought they wouldn’t, it’s just that I expected the conversations to unravel in an unfamiliar way.  They didn’t.  The awkward pauses, the fleeing of the conversation when topics became scarce, the uneasy smiles, the out-of-place but liberating laughter, the reliance on the most talkative member of the group to save the rest — all too familiar to me.  I felt comfortable, as if only the scenery of my life had been changed.  I felt — for lack of a better, more specific word — human.  To clarify: I’ve always felt human, or so I suppose, but for the first time I was connecting with people simply because we were people, that is, curious, caring, bored, in the mood for a Fanta.

My friend and I, true to Peace Corps principles, had an unsaid but religiously-followed rule: to live and travel as average Tanzanians.  In a country with little, and often rudimentary, infrastructure, this rule made traveling all the more interesting, memorable, edifying and, frankly, scary.  And travel we did — through forests and cities.  We journeyed to a preserved rainforest by the strength of our feet and two pick-up trucks, the second of which we shared with three barrels of gasoline, maybe 200 pounds of rice and ten to fifteen Tanzanians.  Another notable trip took place in Dar es Salaam, the country’s largest city.  This particular trip made the finite space of a minibus seem boundless.  Just when I thought it was impossible to fit even a small child into the bus, it stopped to pick up another four African mamas, each carrying goods from the market, and, for whatever reason, a computer monitor was brought in through a window.

This space-defying, tightly packed trip happened to be my last in the country; I was going to the airport.  At my stop, I hesitated.  Some people in the bus shot me a look; others spoke in Swahili.  I imagine they thought or said: “What’s this mzungu doing?  This is his stop.”  My friend gave me a nudge and said, “Just go.”  I went.  I had to squeeze through people and climb over them.  To my surprise, no one pushed back or became annoyed. Tanzanians handle such situations with incomparable equanimity, and it’s refreshing to see people in such close contact remain calm, cooperative. 

After three weeks of such travel and powerful realizations, the flight home – figuratively and literally – flew by.  Throughout the flight, I was in deep introspection (and didn’t even bother to check if the TV worked or not).  I realized how privileged I was and that with this privilege comes great responsibilities.  Namely, if we are going to use valuable resources to visit (or report on) those without such resources, we must do so modestly, respectfully; we must share what we’ve found understandingly, forthrightly; and it must be to our and their benefit.

I owe much to the continent and am looking to settle my debt with interest.